The Veal Deal

But fortunately, Sutter's isn't just about bigness. Good quality factors into the equation, too. Ingredients are fresh, and homemade sauces are, for the most part, well-crafted. While we were hard-pressed to detect essence of sherry in that ubiquitous "creamy sherry wine sauce," for instance, the fact remains that it was a perfectly made white sauce -- rich but light-textured, with a delicacy and refinement that enhanced whatever it settled upon. Likewise, the savory tomato sauce that underpinned our plate of excellent cabbage rolls and schnitzel tasted fresh and bright, and was just the ticket for melding the solid Eastern European flavors. Breadings on the wiener schnitzel, mushroom caps, and sauerkraut balls were wonderfully crunchy and light; the veal was consistently tender; and although the sponge-like potato pancakes had soaked up what was probably an entire day's allotment of oil, they were the last things we thought about, longingly, before falling asleep on Saturday night. If the Scaloppini Sutter Style (sautéed veal with garlic, shallots, fresh tomato, and mushrooms in the sherry cream sauce) could have profited from a bit less sauce and a lighter touch with the garlic, well, we were entirely won over by the lushness of the Schnitzel Swiss Style, topped with thin sheets of Black Forest ham, sautéed mushrooms, and baby Swiss cheese. However, on future trips, we will steer clear of the linguine with chicken breast: With its lackluster marinara and overcooked pasta, it was heavy and forgettable.

As for its appearance, the restaurant is a clean and tidy space, with only 14 tables crammed into the tiny barroom, a slightly larger main dining room, and a little "overflow" dining area tucked in beside the kitchen. The down-to-earth decor is a hodgepodge of elements, ranging from elegant gilt-framed mirrors to a red-chile-pepper wreath on the mantel of the picayune fireplace. Tables are topped with retro-style orange-and-black paper placemats, providing descriptions of assorted mixed drinks, including long-forgotten recipes for passé little numbers like the Gin Ricky and the Dubonnet Cocktail. Cloth napkins hold bundles of mismatched flatware, and flowers and candlelight are notable only in their absence.

Still, Sutter's simple decor, along with its nomadic history -- which has forced its fans to chase it across the countryside -- has apparently only heightened its allure. John Sutter, a Romanian-trained professional chef with plenty of local cooking experience, opened his first restaurant in 1980 on East 140th Street in Cleveland. After nine years, the popular dining room outgrew its space, and it moved to a larger nearby facility, where it remained until 1996. By then, the mister and missus found themselves in need of a break from the rigors of restaurant operation; when they reopened in Geauga County in 1998, the old regulars seemed to take it as a personal challenge to find their way to the new location, often bringing children and grandchildren along for the ride.

This type of familial loyalty finds its reflection in the restaurant's staff. Most evenings, John is hard at work over a hot stove in the kitchen, while Stephanie either waits tables or tends bar. John's sister, Lisa Ghiurcan, makes the daily desserts: items like a prodigious lemon pie, topped with a towering cap of Martha Stewart-perfect meringue, or dense chocolate cake, ribboned with creamy chocolate frosting. John's brother Joe is his kitchen sidekick. And the couple's children help out -- bussing tables, washing dishes -- as necessary.

It all makes for a hospitable little portrait of hearth and home, a snapshot where you can visualize yourself sipping white zinfandel with impunity, and where no one needs a dictionary to comprehend the menu. And that, in a nutshell, is this restaurant's charm. The world can be a rough-and-tumble place, for sure. But as long as your bruised and quivering lips can form the words, "Veal, please," you know you'll never go hungry at Sutter's.