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Sheng Long Yu has walked me through a handful of soon-to-open restaurants since launching his hospitality career, from Dagu Rice Noodle in Asiatown to Hell’s Fried Chicken in University Circle. But I’ve never seen him as excited as the day we toured Lao Sze Chuan at Pinecrest. After six months of work, his “restaurant in a box” was nearly complete, having made its way from China in a million pieces only to be assembled on this side of the world.
As he did with Dagu Rice Noodle, Yu sought out a respected international brand and endeavored to bring it to Cleveland. Just prior to opening, he would be hosting Tony Hu, the man who founded the original Lao Sze Chuan in Chicago’s Chinatown neighborhood more than a quarter century ago. It was Hu that Yu needed to convince that he was the right man to help guide the famed Szechuan restaurant into its next phase of expansion.
In terms of looking for an excuse to visit a new Chinese restaurant, it doesn’t get much better than the Lunar New Year, which arrives on February 10. It’s a time when families gather to celebrate and eat foods designed to usher in a year of good health, luck and prosperity. One of the most celebratory items on the holiday table is Peking duck, a dish that typically requires advance notice at most restaurants. Not at Lao Sze Chuan, where it’s available at the drop of a chopstick.
Like most dishes here, the duck arrives via stainless steel cart that’s wheeled up to the table. First come the crispy-skin snacks, jewel-like shards arranged on a bed of granulated sugar. The main event consists of a platter of expertly carved duck breast, a steamer basket of paper-thin pancakes, julienned cucumbers and scallions, duck sauce and hoisin sauce. The thinly sliced meat is tender, sweet and lean, ringed by a layer of fat and capped with glossy chestnut-brown skin. A half order ($48) is enough for two but groups any larger will want to order the “full set” ($88). For an extra $20, a chef will carve it tableside.
At Lao Sze Chuan, presentation matters. The chopsticks are tipped with gold, family-size soups are served in a deep tureen, and whole boiled fish arrives in an elevated platter warmed from below. Pork and crab soup dumplings ($15.95), served by the half dozen in a bamboo box, are insanely rich, soupy and satisfying. A spray of bright green lettuce leaves is artfully arranged around a portion of stir-fried shredded duck ($23.95), a dish so packed with flavor, texture and depth that it rivals the Peking duck. In contrast, the irresistible cucumber salad ($9.95) is bright, crunchy, refreshing and tangy.
Upscale Chinese restaurants are still a rarity around here, which makes Lao Sze Chuan more of a destination place than your typical pepper steak palace. The posh setting combined with the brand’s highly regarded reputation attracts Asian (and non-Asian) diners from far afield. Sure, many of these dishes are available – just as good and slightly less expensive– in Asiatown, but sometimes a different cup of tea is worth seeking out.
Seated in this gilded dining room, dishes like dry chili chicken ($21.95) and Xinjiang-style cumin lamb ($27.95) seem a skosh crisper, a wee bit spicier and, oh dear, look at all that steamed rice. Both of those dishes contain enough Szechuan peppercorns to numb a pre-op dental patient. We especially loved the spicy cumin-perfumed lamb but couldn’t stop nibbling on both.
Starters and sides like pan-fried dumplings ($9.95), crispy spring rolls ($6.95) and Szechuan green beans ($18.95) are as good here as anywhere. The one dish that fell flat for us was the dandan noodles ($9.95), owing to washed-out flavors and very soft noodles.
Despite the elegant surroundings and the suburban zip code, prices are surprisingly in line with the competition. Other than a handful of special dishes – and those green beans! – there’s no reason to bat an eye. Japanese beers like Hitachino Nest White Ale are $9, martinis just $12, and a decent chardonnay clocks in at $11.
Over the course of two visits, we barely scratched the surface of the multi-page menu. While I do love my Asiatown favorites, there are dozens of reasons to schedule a return visit to Lao Sze Chuan. One of them is dim sum, which is served from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Friday through Sunday. Another might be the special menu that the restaurant will be rolling out to ring in the Year of the Dragon. Available a la carte or as a tasting menu, it’s bound to bring good luck.
Lao Sze Chuan
10 Park Ave. Ste. 106, Orange Village
216-331-4642
laoszechuanohio.com
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As he did with Dagu Rice Noodle, Yu sought out a respected international brand and endeavored to bring it to Cleveland. Just prior to opening, he would be hosting Tony Hu, the man who founded the original Lao Sze Chuan in Chicago’s Chinatown neighborhood more than a quarter century ago. It was Hu that Yu needed to convince that he was the right man to help guide the famed Szechuan restaurant into its next phase of expansion.
In terms of looking for an excuse to visit a new Chinese restaurant, it doesn’t get much better than the Lunar New Year, which arrives on February 10. It’s a time when families gather to celebrate and eat foods designed to usher in a year of good health, luck and prosperity. One of the most celebratory items on the holiday table is Peking duck, a dish that typically requires advance notice at most restaurants. Not at Lao Sze Chuan, where it’s available at the drop of a chopstick.
Like most dishes here, the duck arrives via stainless steel cart that’s wheeled up to the table. First come the crispy-skin snacks, jewel-like shards arranged on a bed of granulated sugar. The main event consists of a platter of expertly carved duck breast, a steamer basket of paper-thin pancakes, julienned cucumbers and scallions, duck sauce and hoisin sauce. The thinly sliced meat is tender, sweet and lean, ringed by a layer of fat and capped with glossy chestnut-brown skin. A half order ($48) is enough for two but groups any larger will want to order the “full set” ($88). For an extra $20, a chef will carve it tableside.
At Lao Sze Chuan, presentation matters. The chopsticks are tipped with gold, family-size soups are served in a deep tureen, and whole boiled fish arrives in an elevated platter warmed from below. Pork and crab soup dumplings ($15.95), served by the half dozen in a bamboo box, are insanely rich, soupy and satisfying. A spray of bright green lettuce leaves is artfully arranged around a portion of stir-fried shredded duck ($23.95), a dish so packed with flavor, texture and depth that it rivals the Peking duck. In contrast, the irresistible cucumber salad ($9.95) is bright, crunchy, refreshing and tangy.
Upscale Chinese restaurants are still a rarity around here, which makes Lao Sze Chuan more of a destination place than your typical pepper steak palace. The posh setting combined with the brand’s highly regarded reputation attracts Asian (and non-Asian) diners from far afield. Sure, many of these dishes are available – just as good and slightly less expensive– in Asiatown, but sometimes a different cup of tea is worth seeking out.
Seated in this gilded dining room, dishes like dry chili chicken ($21.95) and Xinjiang-style cumin lamb ($27.95) seem a skosh crisper, a wee bit spicier and, oh dear, look at all that steamed rice. Both of those dishes contain enough Szechuan peppercorns to numb a pre-op dental patient. We especially loved the spicy cumin-perfumed lamb but couldn’t stop nibbling on both.
Starters and sides like pan-fried dumplings ($9.95), crispy spring rolls ($6.95) and Szechuan green beans ($18.95) are as good here as anywhere. The one dish that fell flat for us was the dandan noodles ($9.95), owing to washed-out flavors and very soft noodles.
Despite the elegant surroundings and the suburban zip code, prices are surprisingly in line with the competition. Other than a handful of special dishes – and those green beans! – there’s no reason to bat an eye. Japanese beers like Hitachino Nest White Ale are $9, martinis just $12, and a decent chardonnay clocks in at $11.
Over the course of two visits, we barely scratched the surface of the multi-page menu. While I do love my Asiatown favorites, there are dozens of reasons to schedule a return visit to Lao Sze Chuan. One of them is dim sum, which is served from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Friday through Sunday. Another might be the special menu that the restaurant will be rolling out to ring in the Year of the Dragon. Available a la carte or as a tasting menu, it’s bound to bring good luck.
Lao Sze Chuan
10 Park Ave. Ste. 106, Orange Village
216-331-4642
laoszechuanohio.com
Subscribe to Cleveland Scene newsletters.
Follow us: Apple News | Google News | NewsBreak | Reddit | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter | Or sign up for our RSS Feed
